And there I was. On the border of Bolivia, ready to collect my 10th stamp on South America trip. Bus rides get longer, altitude higher and weather increasingly colder. Nonetheless, the scenery get more incredible.

Copacabana. First thing that comes in your mind is beach, sand, sea. But I’m not talking about Brazils Copacabana but a less fancy and way less developed Bolivia’s Lake Titicaca.

Coming by many buses from the country of Machu Picchu, Copacabana welcomed us with a shiny blue skies contrasting with bitterly cold nights. Lake Titicaca always tickled my curiosity, so we chose to visit it from Bolivian side to see the reason why also Bolivia’s Copacabana has become a tourist magnet.  And there it was: the largest lake in South America and the highest navigable body of water in the world – Lake Titicaca!

With a length of 190km it was impossible to see the other end, so it felt like you’re looking at the sea. And it was not only the size, it was the amazing colour, a bit like watching caribbean waters standing still.

Copacabana itself offers wide choice of accommodation. On the way here, we met with another guy, and so there was three of us for a few days. Knowing that Bolivia suppose to be the cheapest country of all, we took hours to walk around many hospedajes to find the best affordable place to stay. Ended up being super exhausted from the altitude and settled in a triple room next to the market for 17bolivianos each ($2.5). It was family run hostel, with basic rooms, no heating and a talking parrot. I guess at that point we didn’t need more. Not until I got really ill with food poisoning for the first time in 2 year trip. Then I would appreciated a private bathroom with heated floors and my mum.

At first glance Copacabana looks quite touristy, with many restaurants and hostels but once you start heading further from the lake and up to the church square, it gets authentic. You could find a huge market selling weirdest random things in the morning and busy ladies making and selling food right there on a street. As I love street food, I went straight on to try fried meats, salchipapas and menu del dia. Until I got food poisoning. First time ever. The irony is, that it wasn’t from street food, it was the time we ate at the pica restaurant.Lesson learned, I should stick to outside stalls. 

I encountered such cold that I gave up and went to one of the ladies with super thick skirt and bowler hat to get some alpaca knitted socks and a headband. I was hoping it would draw the end of an ice age era. Not really. I was still cold, for the rest of a trip.

I was very excited to see more of Lake Titicaca with the trip to Isla del Sol. Unfortunately, getting ill the night before took all my excitement away and just looking at the boat the next morning made me think twice. I put all my worries into pockets and with 30 others board the boat. Boats leave every day at 8:30 am and 12:30 pm from Copacabana to Isla del Sol. The ticket counter is located at the waterfront and you can buy the ticket on the same day or go around many agencies and you could negotiate better price. We paid around 25 bolivianos per person return ($4).

You can choose to sit inside or outside on a roof, but whichever way you choose wear a sunscreen, as sun here tends to be super sneaky!

You can either disembark in Yumani (1,5h away) in the south or in Challapampa (2h away) in the north of the island. It doesn’t really matter where you start your island exploration. we went all the way to Challapampa and because I still wasn’t well did a little hike, not all the island. It was still absolutely breathtaking and incredible to see all that water around from the high up. If you feel like screaming out to the world, DO IT ! This is your moment! But if you’re ready to do full island hike, bring some change for entries, there will be a few to pay.

If you don’t plan to stay overnight, you can either take the boat back from Challapampa (departs at 1pm) or from Yumani in the South (departs at 4pm).

Please note: take lunch. There is a little shop serving sandwiches and drinks if you don’t bring anything. Also there is only one public toilet on the island, use it effectively:)

A few days at Lake Titicaca went quickly but we’ve enjoyed every minute of it (except me being ill). If you’ll ever have the chance to visit Bolivia and Lake Titicaca, don’t just visit Copacabana. You will miss such amazing views when not going to Isla del Sol, it’s a must visit.

Until next time and safe travels.

R.

 

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