‘Rio Dulce is a must visit in Guatemala’- I was told by many travellers. So here I am, last night in my dorm on a water, typing out my disappointment.

Honestly, wouldn’t put it on my must see places list. The only reason I ended up here is to use it as a connection point to either Belize or Honduras, at the point of arrival was still undecided. First night spent at Bruno’s was in correct words awful. Not mentioning flying cockroaches, dorm building was just next to the massive bridge, where at least dozen of trucks pass every hour, 24/7. It feels like helicopters circling outside your window and some kind of war happening at the same time. Even my super-duper earplugs were not able to isolate all of the madness. To make things worse, power was lost around 6am turning off all the fans and water. Vuolia, don’t forget this cost us 50Q for a dorm bed.

Let me make this story more Disney World like, with a happy ending.

Early in the morning changed hostel to Hostel Backpackers just on the other side of the bridge. I mean bridge is huge and takes about 15min to walk. Not in a rush tho, and not ready to pay dollar to tuk tuk driver for every inch he moves. Hostel was much better and twice cheaper, 30Q a night and reception did not ignore me for 20min standing at the desk. Quickly dropped the bags and headed to next door kiosk for an omelette cooked by local ‘babushka’. Coffee, cream, beans, tortillas and omelette for 15Q, sweet.

Hostel Backpackers Dorm


The only attraction I was interested in Rio Dulce was visiting hot springs. It’s about 20km outside town and has colectivos going there often enough for 20Q each way. The day was too nice and the wallet was too angry to do it touristy way. Hitchhiking sort of day it is! Walk to the other side of the bridge, take first left after the bank and walk up till road splits. Then wait for cars. Poof, hailed coca-cola look alike truck, and it was red:) Guy barely spoke English but was happy to give us a ride. 25min and you’re at the Aguas Calientes. Waterfal is called Finca El Paraiso I think. You will be approached by older man wearing cowboys hat and asked for 10Q entry fee. Not sure where the money goes as he didn’t give me any receipt but can I argue with minimal Spanish? After that it’s like 5min walk and you will hear the waterfall. Go closer and you’ll feel the steam from hot falling water. At places it’s deep enough to dive but don’t, too many stones ready to split your head in half. It’s a strange feeling of hot and cold water in same place. Falling one is hot, like real hot and river water is cold. Little caves around make great sauna’s. Spent more then an hour floating around and splashing like a little kid, which makes this day trip an unquestionable highlight of eastern Guatemala.

Coming back same way made trip to waterfalls dead cheap, costing only 10Q. Hotel reception sells it for 100Q. That’s why I like ‘do it yourself’ way!

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